Thursday, February 25, 2010

Scooter trip day 9

Today we travelled from from Lishan to Hsinchu. 180km on windy roads, but the weather was the best day of the whole trip, so we had great views for the journey home.

There was a very little bit of ice rain, as we started riding our steads at 7am, so it was fresh but there beautiful of the snow-capped mountains in the distance.

A quick stop for the loo in the bamboo (but no number two).

We stopped at this little waterfall on the side of the road, and had some delicious fried chicken from a local vendor. While we there, some Taiwanese people also stopped for a photo and some padkos. Just as they were leaving, they gave us a whole bunch of luxury tea and coffee sachets. Friendly people, these Taiwanese.

It's amazing how the vegetation changes, driving from the mountains to the coast: Alpine plants, to Pine forests, to Tea Tree farms, to bamboo forests, to thick tropical vegetation, to rice paddies...

This was actually the corner that we wiped out on during Day 1, but it was drier and safer today. Tim retrieved the piece of Whoopi that got knocked off. It was quite emotional being back there (Not!).

Check out the videos of our scooter trip at these links:
If you cannot view the above video, because of copyright reasons, then watch it without music at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kRlyZuqJJw
The infamous green island ferry - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiysDqGDJEo

The end (of the scooter trip).

Scooter Trip - Day 8

Day 8 Hualien - Toroko Gorge - Lishan

As we were leaving the Hostel in Hualien and packing our scoots for the day, we met a Russian fella who was doing the same thing (packing the scooter) and was heading to the same place ( Sun Moon Lake ), along the same road. So we combined forces and set out on this epic day. We had all been to Toroko before, but it is a hard place to just "drive through" so we stopped many times to snap the pics and gape at the landscape. The weather was fairly decent and it had been raining for several days before, so the river was flowing quite furiously.


Here we have Vetelli, giving the sign of peace and good tidings.He was a friendly sorta guy, who spoke excellent Chinese so he was really hand to have around. He also sported a purple rain coat, which added some interest to his look.


In the back round is a landslide which collapsed a concrete road protection structure(thing), so the road was diverted just in front of the landslide. Even as we were there some small rocks were tumbling off the slope onto the side of the road.

At this stage, we had gone up through the Toroko Gorge, and we continuing up the road which itself was going up into the clouds. Was not a comfortable drive, getting colder and damper as we went. Also at this stage it was very scenic and peaceful, but soon we would be in the clouds...

Cliff was just checking to see if there was anything in his teeth. He is very consciousness with his oral Hygiene. Vetelli and I were having a scooter show down. The Russians...


Some time later....and we had emerged from the clouds! I was wearing a dashing vest to reduce my chances of being squashed in the cloudy darkness. It was all worth it though, as it was warmer above the clouds and very bright and sunny. And....there was snow!

This was a big highlight of the trip, and it was a very fortunate thing that we had our Chinese speaking travel companion with us as he managed to talk our way through a police road block. There were requiring people to have snow chains, or winter tyres on their cars to go any further up the road. We had neither, but we convinced the Policeman to allow us through "just to look at the snow" and them come back again. Our intention was to keeping on going over the mountain along the road to the Sun Moon Lake. The ONLY road to the Sun Moon Lake!


Vetelli was way more excited about the snow than we were. And we were excited about it. He kept on stopping to take photos and when we asked him why he was so excited (and we mentioned that we were under the impression there was quite a lot of snow in Russia ) he explained that he had not seen snow in TWO YEARS! And for this reason he was very very happy.

Cliff in the snow, not making a very good snow angel.


Here are the two steeds, up in uncharted territory, pushing the boundaries and living on the cutting edge of high performance scootering.

What happened next was unfortunate. We went as far as we could (and it was really beautiful) when we met yet another road block, which we were stopped at. We came across a guy also on a scooter, who had a snow chain for his back wheel, and he told us it was impossible to go any further! This was due to the fact that the snow came up to his waste, and scooters are not quite built for pushing snow around. So we were in quite a pickle, not having a place to stay and large distance to get back to Hsinchu. We decided to go north, on a road in a valley between the mountains and hope to find a place to stay. The travel guide did not say there was much there, except for some small towns.

Fortunately we found a strange sort of place to stay with Vetelli, and we parted our ways the next morning. He was going to try the road to Sun Moon Lake again the following day. Quite an up and down day (in moods and topography).

Day 9 awaits!



Scooter trip day 7

Today we travelled from Yuli to Hualien. It rained.

We drove over the Tropic of Cancer again, and gave the monument some tongue.

We stopped at some stylish spartan hot springs along the way. Cliff slipped on the wood and met the floor. Some parents pushed some kids over to us, so they could make use of those expensive English lessons.

Tim met some ladies (sisters actually), but he was real gentleham. He didn't unbacon their tops, and pork their chops.

That night we found some authentic steamed dumplings, and then we went and watched a movie. As with most movies in Taiwan, we simply choose it by the name, poster and actors in the movie, so we were pretty shocked at the content of :"I love you Phillip Morris". It was the true story about the rollercoaster life of a gay fraudster, but ended up being pretty interesting.

Scooter Trip - Day 6

Day 6 -Yuli

We decided to stay two nights in Yuli, as it's a calm little town and we found a comfy little hotel by the train station to kip in. There is some nice hiking around Yuli, as well as some good hot springs to choose from - so we did them both!

First we headed into the wild for some more adventure. This is a suspension bridge built by the Japs to control the locals folks here in Taiwan about 70 - 80 years ago.

It felt like a really study bridge and we had a whale of a time running around on it. Luckily no one was watching.


Here is Cliff hanging off a pole. The pole warns people of the Cliff. Be warned of this Cliff.

There are many "poisonous wasps" in Taiwan, which one has to be constantly on the lookout for. Fortunately there are many signs warning you of this. There are also bears in Taiwan, of the brown variety. But we are told they are only seen by locals. Smell a rat? Smell a bear?

Along the trail we met some Asian looking Australians who own a seatbelt factory. Your normal passing conversation...

Later we went to the Antung Hot springs. A non-smelly 42degree spring, which is used locally to make coffee for the tourists. (I'm guessing at inflated prices.) We clean forgot to try some, and to see if it tastes any different. My low light, and Cliffs highlight, of the hot springing experience is an event that occurred between myself and a fellow Taiwanese bather. My swimming cap (and head) we mistaken by the native as a rock/handle/hand grip, and he rather embarrassingly grabbed my head to steady himself as he climbed into the pool. And what followed was an even weirder conversation, in which neither of us had any idea what the other was saying.

Then just back to the hotel to watch a movie about the end of the world.

Day 7 and onwards!

Scooter trip day 5

Today, We went from Green Island to Yuli town.

The Ferry trip back to the mainland was pretty uneventful. I took a pill for seasickness and Tim took two, and so we slept for most of the ride.


We took a more inland road, for the drive north, which was in a valley. The clouds sitting on the mountains and the reflective rice paddies was the entertainment for the journey.

There were quite a few flower places in full bloom.

It was raining for the last hour or two of our ride, so we were really grateful to find this delicious pork/curry dish that came in an interesting dish. We enjoyed it so much, that we had it for lunch the next day as well.

We stayed at a nice hotel in Yuli, and they had some Koi fish at the entrance, but we could bomb or electrocute those either!

Scooter Trip - Day 4

Day4 - Taitung to Green Island.

We had a slight change in plan, which really worked out to make the trip a bit more interesting. The hostel in Taitung messed up our booking a bit, and we didn't really have a place to stay for the second night we planned to be in Taitung. So after the lady in the hostel assured us there was only one boat a day going to Green Island, we decided to try any way and headed out on the open sea!

The ferry ride to green island is fairly notorious around these parts, and to explain it best a quote follows from an eloquent Lonely Planet Travel guide writer:

"The Green Island Vomit Barge.

Green Island is among Taiwan's loveliest offerings, and as a traveller and writer I recommend a visit highly. However, a word on the boat: I am an islander, of sorts ( Staten Island, New York, where the ferry to and from Manhattan, though hardly a strenuous voyage, was a daily routine for a decade). I've travelled extensively by ship and ferry around Taiwan, by riverboat through China's Pearl Delta and Southeast Asia, and by a host of seagoing vessels large and small around Maritime Canada and in the Pacific Northwest.
Only twice in my extensive travels have I found myself, face pressed against a rolling floor, stinking of my own vomit, begging for the sweet, sweet release of death.
The first time was on the boat to Green Island while researching the chapter you're currently reading. The second was on the way back. Consider youselves warned."

Unfortunately...the boat ride did its work adequately, and I was well incapacitated for most of the ride. Watch the video Cliff made on the boat if you want anymore explanation...because you won't be getting it from me!
Here is link for the green island ferry video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiysDqGDJEo

It was all worth it in the end, as Green Island is really a special place. (surprise surprise) this little Island off the coast was originally a prison, and was even called Fire Island. I think because they used to light fires here to warn fishing ships not to smash into it.

After 3 solid days of scootering, both Cliff and I were both "full on" for a change from scootering. "Full on" is an Australian expression which I am not sure I have got the gist of. But I am trying. So we hired two bikes, as the Islands one and only road which goes around the Island is 17km long.



The weather wasn't the greatest, being windy and rainy but it wasn't that cold. So it was great. Green Island is a good place to snorkel and Scuba dive. But even to snorkel you need to have a guide, so we just jumped in the sea off one of their platform things.


Lunch at a friendly local jaunt:


There are only 3 saltwater springs in the world: one in Japan, one in Italy and the third is here on Green Island. Water from the sea goes down cracks in the rocks and returns to the surface at about 42degrees. And it is not even smelly. We spent a good few hours here, enjoying sitting in the tiled outside pools. As darkness fell we snuck down to the closed off rough pools in the rocks right on the shore line. And that was awesome - partly because we were breaking the rules but more because it was totally unprotected and rough, with waves crashing meters away!


As we enjoyed the pools we slowly realised a slight miscalculation we had made. That being that night had fallen, and that our transportation had a distinct lack of lighting equipment. It had also got a lot more windy and more "treacherous". But not to worry. Slow and easy does it!

We stopped off at a little village along the way and ate some lamb/cabbage/vege type soup dish thing, with the assistance of a guy who spoke chinese. The restaurant felt like a small warehouse, but the drying washing, tv sets, lounge furniture, children etc made us think it just might be the families living, eating and entertaining room. It is always hard to feel offended, or to offend really, if you can't speak much of the language. So we ate our meal in blissful ignorance, not really knowing what the situation was.


Day 5 awaits!

Scooter trip day 3

Today, we travelled 170km from Hualien to Taitung.


They are so strict about fishing in Taiwan! Loosen up a bit guys.

These guys tried to show us up by parking their Harleys next to us, but we sure showed them. Actually it was a family (mom and dad, and the 2 kids) on a road trip, but we showed them no mercy.

We saw the leaning tower of Cancer on the tropical line at 23.5 degrees from the Equator.

We were driving for most of the day. It was a nice road that went along the sea for the whole time.
The eight-arch bridge did indeed have eight archs, so it wasn't a mind trick.

Scooter Trip - Day 2


Day 2! Ilan to Hualien.



We woke up in our swanky hotel room with the memory of yesterdays wet, cold day of scootering still fresh in our minds, to a beautiful sunny warm morning. Here is the view from our hotel room, looking towards the sea over the flooded rice fields reflecting the sky.

I REALLY enjoyed the warm and sunshine after the previous day, and we saw some interesting locations for houses amongst the rice fields:

It was really nice after Ilan, with mountains and the coast surrounding a very flat sort of plain full of farms and small houses.


Our plan for today was to drive from Ilan down to Hualien, stopping and seeing whatever interesting things there were to see along the way. The road stayed close to the coastline for most of the day, but might have been the busiest and most crowded road of the whole trip. The highway from Taipei heading south ends after Ilan, so suddenly the main road we were riding along became a lot busier and congested and for a while we actually thought there must have been an accident up along the road because of the slow moving traffic. Scooter advantage! No need to stick with traffic jams!

As you can see:many cars going south - and not many going north! We stopped at a 711 to get some munchies and stuff and we met three cyclists going north. Felt incredibly lazy saying we were just scootering around Taiwan a bit, after hearing their ambitious plans. They were foreigners and almost by default are teaching English. We had a good chat, one of the guys was 196cm tall (I asked him) which means that in basically every conversation he has in Taiwan his height and skinny stature will come up! Poor guy.

I like dogs, but I also like cats. And usually I like most cats. But I met a cat I did not like, and I told Cliff the moment I saw the smelly dirty flea infested specimen of a cat, that I did not like that cat.

So we had something to drink and chatted with the cyclists and then shock and horror the darn cat decides it is going to have a nap of my scooter seat. There were MANY scooters seats outside that 7/11, and it had to choose MINE. Here is the offending critter:


So we pretty much just continued heading south until we arrived at Toroko National Park. There are some famous cliffs just north of Toroko, where the road goes in and out of tunnels along the cliff edge, which makes for some fun scootering.


We pulled into The Toroko National Park quickly before we went into Hualien, and we visited these sweet little temples on the mountain side.


And then there was day three...

Scooter trip day 1

We recently had a week off work, for the Lunar new year celebrations. This is normally a time when the family gets together (a "thanksgiving" of the East), but... we went in search of Adventure. We went on a 9 day road trip from city to city riding our 100cc and 125cc beasts of transportation.

The above pic shows the route we took.

Check out the videos of our scooter trip at these links:
If you cannot view the above video, because of copyright reasons, then watch it without music at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kRlyZuqJJw
The infamous green island ferry - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiysDqGDJEo

The first day was the worst, due to the tears of the weather cods. It was raining when we got up, and it just kept on raining (somebody must really have upset those cods). It was not a merciful drizzly rain, but rather a punishing wet rain. The low misty clouds were cataracts on our eyes, stopping us from seeing grand views.

There was light at the end of the tunnel. We had booked a luxurious hotel in Yilan with hot springs, so we dreamed of those clean white sheets and hot massage jets, as the rain froze our fingers and toes. See the hot springs at the hotel (above).

Oh, and did I mention that we had a little accident along the way. Some of roads in the mountains were really curvy and the surface was covered with moss and mud. As I was going around one sharp corner, my back tyre slipped out, and the bike fell onto its side, and skidded 2 or 3 meters. Tim was right behind me, and so as he braked, the same thing happened to him.

We were only going about 20km per hour, and we were all padded up in our layers of clothing, so there wasn't much damage to the people or the beasts. It just knocked a piece off the Whoopi, and gave me a nice little roastie on my knee.
You may think this was a bad thing, but it was my highlight of the day. It was like a natural adrenalin pumping roller-coaster. I didn't fell the cold or wet after that... because my mind was thinking about near death experiences, and what really matters in life :)